Thanksgiving flavors – Cranberry/Apple Chutney and Cranberry Sauce

Thanksgiving at the Scully household of my youth was always a time with so many people running around; so much food cooking and for some reason lots of loud music. My mom was always considered the best cook in her family so her family was usually at our house in force. She made everything from scratch, so I didn’t know any better. I thought everyone made a pan gravy and au gratin onions. I thought it was normal to make a pate from the Turkey liver.

However, I gradually became aware of the way other folks “celebrated” culinary feasts. That was for the most part, very disappointing. When I met the mother of my two kids, I found someone who rivaled my mom. She was interested in doing everything the best she could, including Thanksgiving! So good in fact, that I was compelled to have two versions of many Thanksgiving staples. I am going to print the two Cranberry sauces and let you be the judge(s) of which was best. It wasn’t easy for me to decide…

Cranberry/Apple Chutney

Ingredients:

1.5 cups                                water

1.5 cups                                sugar

3/4 cups                               onion (finely chopped)

1 tbs                                        garlic

2 tsp                                       cinnamon

3/4 tsp                                  ground cloves

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1/2 cup                                 apple cider vinegar

1/4 tsp                                  cayenne pepper

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

1 cup                                     white raisins

1 cup                                     apples (peeled and diced)

1/2 tsp                                  ground ginger

1/2 cup                                 brown sugar

Method: Sauté the onions  in a little oil, add the first nine ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add everything else and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool.

Cranberry Sauce

Ingredients:

1 cups                                   water

1.5 cups                                sugar

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

4 each                                   cinnamon sticks

1 each                                   orange (navel) quartered and sliced thin)

Method: Combine all items and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and cool. Serve.

As you might be able to observe, the two recipes are VERY different. So were the two women, each great in her way as are these distinctive Thanksgiving Sauces.

The truth is out OR Things just don’t taste the same outside the restaurant

I recently received my first piece of “fan mail” for my monthly diatribe in the Fairview Town Crier. I was gratified because I really don’t think of myself as any kind of writer. We have people in our community that are writers and I have neither the education nor the talent to consider myself one of them.  It was, however a stroke to the old ego.

“Dear Chef Joe Scully;

I just have to tell you how much I enjoy your monthly column in the Fairview Town Crier…”

Now here comes the inspiring part of the letter, “But I have a bone to pick with you…”  Oh, God, I thought, what now.  “It is concerning the recipe for Vegetarian Lentil Soup… You list all the ingredients except for the real flavoring (her italics) part of the soup,  you simply say “various herbs”. Come on now, you and I both well know that the differences between your Vegetarian Lentil Soup and mine are just that; which and how much of those “various herbs”.  I’ve eaten at your restaurant often enough to know that to be true. Otherwise, I’d just eat at home…”

So, I stand accused of omitting key ingredients!  It seems that I am afraid to reveal all of what I know in order to keep my place as “Chef”!  Not true, I say, not true. I am totally willing to divulge all of what I know. It is not a secret, but time and print place limitations on what I actually include in whatever I say or write.  There are many factors that go into creating a truly great bit of cooking. Usually is it method, but just as often it is an ingredient. Let me set the record straight, the “various herbs” are what we call the “Herb Mix”.  This is a grouping of chopped herbs that define a lot of our style and taste at the Corner Kitchen.

Lavender Herb Mix

Ingredients:

½ cup               Lavender (picked)

½ cup               Rosemary (picked)

½ cup              Thyme (picked)

½ cup              Oregano (picked)

¼ cup              Sage (if available)

1 cup               Parsley

Method:  Combine and chop all.

For that particular soup, it is just as important to use WAY too much olive oil, and the tomato product, oh yes, and don’t forget the Balsamic Vinegar… There are so many variables. Like this one:  you should caramelize the onions to get extra flavor. Then it is a good practice to make a bouquet of herbs “en branche” like those listed above (tie them with twine and pick them out when the soup is complete).

You get the idea. I love to give my recipes away. Mostly because it is fun to see the surprise on the face of the recipient, but also because I like to give things. I do have to admit though, that in the back of my mind I am secure in the knowledge that most folks won’t be able to make the item taste as good as it tasted in the restaurant. There; more confessions…

Here is one of my favorites:

White Chocolate Mac-nut Blondie

Oven to 325f

Ingredients:

Dry Mix:

5.5 cups                                Pecans, toasted and fine chop

5.5 cups                                AP Flour                                                   Combine

1 tsp                                        Baking Soda

1 tsp.                                       Salt

Wet Mix:

1.5 lbs.                                  Butter (soft)

1lb cups                                Lt. Brown Sugar (packed)                 Cream

1.5  cup                                 Sugar

Then Add:

6 each                                   Eggs

6 each                                   Yolks

1 cup                                     Lt. Corn Syrup

3 Tbsp.                                  Vanilla

Add Dry Mix and then mix in “garnish”:

4 cups                                   White Chocolate Chips

3 cups                                   Crystallized Ginger

and  top with :

1 cup                                      Chopped Mac-nuts

Method:  Bake for 25 minutes on a full greased parchment lined sheet pan cool and cut into squares (5×8)

A day on the river with Kevin and Joe (and Richard Witt)

Joe and I have been business partners for over seven years.  We have torn out drywall together, installed windows in the restaurant together, done Bele Chere three times, and canoed to the restaurant during the floods of 2004 but have never gone fishing together.  This is probably because neither of us fish a lot or, more likely, that we just didn’t have the time.

A friend of ours, and fellow Biltmore Village businessman, Richard Witt of Curtis Wright Outfitters, has been trying to get us on the river with him for a couple of years.  He is very friendly and not pushy, but insistent in a way that is hard to say “no” to.  In late March of this year, he hit us with the offer at the right time.  Joe and I both said yes and Richard set the trip for early on a Monday morning.  It was cold and rainy.  “Do fish still bite in the rain?” I asked Joe.  I think the answer was “They are already wet, what do you think?” or something like that.  Long story short, the trip was still on.

Richard picked us up in his van, which is outfitted with everything several people could possibly need for fishing, including a goodie box with Clif Bars and other assorted foodstuffs.  Our destination was the Davidson River near Brevard.  We actually parked in the lot near the fish hatchery.  Richard helped us get outfitted in our waders and talked us through what to expect.  The fly rods he gave us were very light and the flys were just a size larger than a large gnat (probably slightly larger than that, but they seemed TINY.)

In the parking lot, Richard actually helped us act out how we would cast, what to do when we caught a fish and how not to make mistakes that would let the fish get off the line.  I commented on the fact that he actually seemed to think that we would really catch something that day and he seemed completely sure of it.  After making sure we had all the equipment and Richard had his camera we walked a couple hundred feet to the river.

Now, most of my fishing experience has been with my grandfather on the French Broad River or with my brother-in-law in Florida.  Both of these required packing up the car, driving to a spot to park, and either walking a half mile or so to the river, or taking the boat a half hour down the Intercoastal Waterway.  What we did with Richard was positively too easy.  Park, get out, walk for a minute and start casting. 

To set the scene, the day was overcast, the water was cold and Joe and I were doing something we had never done before.  To top it off, I had sunglasses but not the right kind.  Richard would look over my shoulder and say “See that big brown trout over there? ” or “There are several good-sized ones under that rhododendron on the far bank.”  I saw water.  So I just cast into the spot he pointed to and after about ten or twelve casts I hooked something.  I pulled back and low like Richard had instructed but either I had no fish or I had pulled the hook.

The next cast, however, I hooked a trout.  Nice!  Richard came over (he stands in the river with you and gives very patient, very calm instruction while you are standing there thinking “Holy Crow- I caught something!  Let me rip this sucker out of the water!”) and talked me through being easy on the fish while keeping it on and steadily reeling it in.

When he eased the net under my first trout, I saw that it was about 8-10 inches long.  Not very big, but it was beautiful to me.  He took the obligatory pictures and then we let the fish relax in the net in the water and released it.  On the Davidson River, apparently it is only legal to catch and release, which made it easier to face my daughter Lauren later in the day.  Soon after this first fish I caught another little guy and then I hooked a nice 15-inch brown trout.  I was having fun now.

Richard had worked his way down the river toward Joe, who had caught a fish as well.  Richard was showing Joe a little overhang on the far bank of the river that had a dark, cave-like entrance beneath it.  Joe kept casting into it with a fly Richard had put on that just floated on the water.  This was fairly tricky work as Joe had to be pretty precise with his casts.  I had already put my fly into the rhodos a couple of times which is not a lot of fun, but Joe avoided this fate.  After a series of casts, a big rainbow hit Joe’s fly.  He set the hook and worked the big guy in.  This was the fish of the day.

We needed to head back to town for the work/family/soccer obligations, so we were off the river by mid-afternoon.  I was a little tired and hungry, so I dove into Richard’s box of goodies and had a snack and a drink.  Richard complimented us on being quick learners and on the fish we had caught.  He may have just being nice, but no one could deny that we had caught some fish.  Having Richard there made it easy & fun. 

We are looking forward to taking our kids back for a day with Richard on the Davidson.  It is a great way to bring your blood pressure down and a beautiful setting to boot.  If you are looking for a great guide and patient teacher, Richard Witt is your man.  He can be reached at curtiswrightoutfitters.com or by phone at 828.274.4371.  Give him a call or visit the shop – you’ll be glad you did.

The real gifts in our lives …

The real gifts are the people we learn from…

The Holidays have become a time for reflection for me. I start with Thanksgiving and the contemplation of all the things and people that I am grateful for. Then the Holiday season really kicks in. The restaurant business gets crazy, the family is pulling us in all directions and we are vaguely preparing to be broke in the coldest months of the year.

I think that is why it becomes easy to lose track of the real gifts. The real presents are the folks that we meet in our lives. Oh, sometimes we can start out disliking someone, or they make us nervous or we feel that an individual has nothing to offer. Then, as time passes we grow to realize that each person we come in contact with has their little bag of tricks, good and bad, that we can grow from and be enriched by.  Here are some of the people that have been gifted to me over the years.

Jimmy Knikos: Here is a guy, running an incredibly busy restaurant, waiters and cooks spinning out of control all around him, and he is calm. I mean really calm. Impeccably dressed and never a hair out of place. I was new to cooking on the “line” and almost totally inept. I was scared, unsure and unskilled. The line was set up such that the manager or expediter called all the orders in over a microphone. We cooks were expected to remember it all and coordinate the tables so that all the food came out together.

I was frequently lost, and just as often, Jimmy Knikos would talk me through the process. He would gently and calmly speak to me over the mic, saying things like, “Joe, turn around and open the oven. Now fire two more stuffed shrimp and don’t forget to take the other one out of the oven. No, that’s a wet towel, you’ll burn yourself, yes, the dry one…” Hours of this, without any anger or disdain at my obvious ineptitude. After a month or so, I got quick and could remember what was happening in sequence. I got good, but it was all Jimmy. He gave me the sense to be a fast and capable cook.

Victor Gouras: I did my “externship” at a New York restaurant called Periyali in early 1988.   It was owned by Charlie Palmer; one of the City’s best chefs. I wanted to work with Charlie, so I took the job.   The kitchen was in the basement of an old building in Flatiron/Chelsea.   As a matter of fact, it is still there (35 West 20th St # A, New York, NY 10011-3709, (212) 463-7890).  It remains a very good upscale Greek restaurant.

On my first day, I met Victor Gouras. He and his wife, Irina, were the “consultants” to ensure authenticity in our Greek-ness with regard the food. At the time Victor was around sixty and to describe him as “crusty” would be a gross understatement. He and Irina lived most of the year on the island of Patmos off Greece. They were in New York specifically to open Periyali. Victor had never gone to Culinary school and was openly contemptuous of anyone who did; think me.

He was also the fastest cook I had ever worked with.  He got more going before 8 AM that most cooks could in an entire day.   His motto; “If you put it on the stove, it will get done.”  He was so rough on me that I had to retire to the restroom to cry in peace on several occasions.  Over time I was able to hang with Victor, I got all the soups and the octopus and the lamb shanks going.  I made sure that I was respectful of Victor and his wife, mostly by making the food exactly the way he showed me.  By the time Victor and Irina had to go back to Greece, he was like a father to me. The tears I shed when we said goodbye were tears of love. I will never forget the lessons and the flavors that Victor Gouras gifted me.

Mark Erickson CMC: When I met Mark, I was doing a Fellowship at the Culinary Institute of America and he was the Director of Culinary Education (kind of like being in charge of the Sports department for the Olympics). He was going to take a job in Atlanta at the Cherokee Town and Country Club, and hired me to be a Sous-Chef.

The thing about Mark is his absolute mastery of so much of our craft. The “CMC” after his name means Certified Master Chef. He also has an MBA.  And he is a great mountain biker.  And he is the most humble and gentle chef I have ever worked with.  Most chefs have big, BIG egos, me included, but somehow Mark was able to out-cook and out-think everyone in the kitchen without the big head.  He was and is a great manager, drawing out the best work from his employees without a trace of histrionics. I saw him angry once, but gave him many opportunities to be angry with me.

I take from Mark the gift of quiet confidence, from Victor the ability to be accepting of knowledge no matter the source or style and from Jimmy the sense of order through the chaos that informs the working life of a chef.  I hope I can always be open and receptive to the gift of the people in my life.

“So, you think you want to be on the Food Network…”

I recently received an email urging me to try out for the newest reality food show, “America’s Next Great Restaurant”. It is a show to be produced for NBC that presumably makes a “contest” out of several ideas for a restaurant franchise. Like all of these kinds of shows, it is really about the personalities. The looks, quirky-ness and less importantly, the actual skill level of the contestants drive the story; such as it is. During the taping of these shows, the hapless subjects are put in all manner of dramatic situations. During the taping the drama is often ratcheted up with alcohol, sleep deprivation and overwork provided by the production company. Then the contestants (hopefully) burst forth with the pathos and melodrama that the viewing public will want to watch.

Not exactly my cup of tea.

The upside for the people who sign on for this insanity is that sometimes there is a breakthrough moment and the next Food Network personality is born. Most folks however, are abused, embarrassed and discarded as quickly as the next commercial break. It is a sad commentary indeed that producers and networks make so much money on this kind of show.

Cooking shows have been around almost as long as television. When I think of cooking shows, I think of Julia Child, Jacques Pepin, Wolfgang Puck and Emeril Lagasse. Each one of these “personalities” had their fair measure of idiosyncrasies, but the message was primarily about the food. These expert chefs were sharing something of value. Their methods have stood the test of time and the information given was really usable. The first “personality” based television show of this type that I remember was called “The Galloping Gourmet” starring a silly man named Graham Kerr. He was a leading man type, very charming for the ladies (think housewife), and ultimately someone who fell by the wayside for want of true substance. By contrast, you can still see re-runs of Julia Child and Emeril continues going strong because of the message behind the hype: Good cooking is not only a joy to watch, but it is wonderful to make as well!

Now, I don’t want to mislead anyone or misrepresent myself; I like the “limelight” as much as the next guy. I would be happy to do a cooking show, because it would be a break from the daily grind. It would be fun and exciting to gain some notoriety. Also, I am certain that those famous chefs make a whole lot of money and that wouldn’t hurt either. The show might be called, “Southern Cookways”. I’d visit cooks and farmers in the Southeast and show off the food we make down here. That way I wouldn’t have to wander too far from home… Lights! Camera!

CIA, love at first sight!

Ah, the legendary Culinary Institute of America. “Harvard on the Hudson”, “The Culinary”, “CIA”, the “Institute”… By any name it is the school to go to if you want to be a really good chef. The graduates include some of the best and most well-known cooks in the country; even Paul Bocuse sent his son Jerome to attend the school. As I think I mentioned, my brother Vin Scully had graduated from the CIA in 1980. He then went on to complete a fellowship at the Ivy Award winning Escoffier Room Restaurant. As a graduate, Vin worked at Le Cote Basque and its sister restaurant La Lavandu in Manhattan. He was really living the life of a chef and I wanted some of what he had. In order to decide what to do next, I asked Vin to take me up to the school while I was in New Jersey for my sister’s wedding. So, up we went, driving through some of the prettiest country in New York State. It was early summer and the dramatic wisteria vines that creep across the school’s main entrance were in full bloom. Talk about an easy sell…
I walked into the building and immediately felt at home. Could be the Catholic thing; the CIA used to be a Jesuit Seminary (St. Andrew’s-on-Hudson). As a matter of fact one of the priests buried in the cemetery out back is a relative of ours. Whatever the reason, it was instantaneous- I needed to be there.
Vin took me down the hall to see the main dining room which used to be a big old church. It was awe-inspiring and filled with the hustle and bustle of students eating lunch. Throughout the building there were (are) kitchens literally behind every door. Vin knew most of the chefs, so it was a great experience. His favorite guys were Jim Heywood and Dieter Faulkner. Jim was (is) a wild chili making chef who never met a stranger. He showed me around his kitchen. The thing that stood out for me was that I didn’t speak his language or know any of the things he was showing me. I knew then that I had a lot to learn. I felt that if I could learn from someone as fun as Chef Jim Heywood, I would have fun and become a good cook to boot. Dieter was a lot more low key. He and Vin worked together at a restaurant in Carmel, NY and truly loved each other. The respect that Vin had (has) for Chef Faulkner was obvious. Chef Faulkner was the kind of fellow that gave compliments sparingly, but if you did get an atta boy, it was for something really very good indeed. We went on to see all the restaurants at the school and explored more kitchens. All in all it was the most excited I had been about anything in my adult life. I mean, here is a place devoted to food and the techniques involved. Here is a place with a chef around every corner, teaching basic cookery, fish cookery, bread baking, pastries, you name it. They even have mysterious subjects like Charcuterie and Garde Manger! I was captivated, enthralled. I had to go.

More of Joe’s Checkered Past

I have had some online comments that I should finish the “biography” of myself with another Blog entry and then move on to more serious subjects, like the story of the Corner Kitchen, recipes, cooking techniques, etc.

I’ll try to fit it into one entry, but I might need two…

Ok…, after about a year in Hackensack, I grew restless (a common theme in my life…). There was a cooking opportunity in Denver, CO. I thought long and hard, about 1 minute, and jumped at the chance to go west. Not one to do much ( ok, no)  research, I pictured Denver as some sort of mountain town, a visualization of pine trees poking up through skyscrapers, arranged to give the appearance of climbing a mountain. I was NOT prepared for the arid, flat expanse that was, and is, Denver. I arrived at the height of the oil boom of the 70’s and the joint was jumping. I liked the feel and in no time was enmeshed in the kitchen business as well as the music and theatre scene. Denver is a great city for young pioneers, which is how I pictured myself.

During this time period I worked for Houlihan’s , TGI Friday’s, and local favorite, Govn’rs Park as well as a short stint at The Normandy Restaurant. The fast pace and lifestyle that I lived at the time was exciting on some levels, but ultimately destructive. I burnt the candle at both ends and sometimes even in the middle. It certainly was NOT about the food, rather it was about the party life. Eventually I had to pull a “geographic”. I knew I had to slow down but couldn’t. I girlfriend of mine was moving to Lincoln, Nebraska to finish her undergraduate work. I decided to go along.

My family said “Nebraaaska! What on earth would compel you to go there?” I, however, had a great time. The high point was working at a place called Kenneth Meier’s Cork and Bottle. Ken had a wine shop that was (and is) the finest wine store in the state. It was here that I learned the basics of two things, wine and salesmanship. These guys were serious about both. In no time they helped me to be conversant in all the German wine regions and adept at reading a German wine label. Then I started on the French. I read Alexis Lichine’s Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits and the Windows on the World Book, both of which are still in my library. I started to cook differently during this time as well. Learning about the finest wines in the world leads very naturally to finer food.

After about a year working with Kenny and the boys, I called the Culinary Institute of America. My brother had graduated from there a couple of years earlier and was doing well. I felt the need to get back in the kitchen, but wanted to go somewhere else with my career path. I spoke to a guy in Admissions and he assured me that I wouldn’t make any more money than I was making working for Ken Meier. He obviously missed the point. It wasn’t and isn’t about the money. If I learned anything from my father, it was to seek excellence and be very good at something you love. I enrolled starting in May of the next year, 1985.

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Laying the Foundation for the Corner Kitchen

This being my first blog entry, I think it may be appropriate to give a little background on me. I also feel that this info should not be the boilerplate bromide that is published on our website. I mean, what’s the pay off for making the extra effort to go the blog, right?

As you may realize, it takes a special type of person to stay in this business for any length of time. “Special” has too many meanings to list here, but suffice it to say, I ain’t braggin’. I am saying that I have been in the Hospitality industry for the last thirty-one years. It all started because I was out of work and putting myself through college. My older brother Vin got me a job as a host at Houlihan’s Old Place at Riverside Square Mall in Hackensack, New Jersey.

Try  telling New Jerseyan’s that they would have to wait for a table,even for a minute. The wait could grow to as much as two hours. Can you say thick skin? Oh yeah, it was very colorful.  After several months of hosting (which I really liked), I quickly trained through out the whole operation, ending up working in the kitchen. Back then the “American Bistro” restaurants like Houlihans’ and TGI Fridays were doing a lot of scratch food preparations. They also did (and do) huge volume. When I started cooking I was lame, very lame indeed. I had to be talked through the rush by a kindly manager by the name of Jimmy Knikos. It was so different from working the door, in the kitchen a confident smile carries no weight, it didn’t matter that I had manners or was glib. The only thing of importance was the food. And getting the food out in sych with the other three cooks on the line. Thankfully my brother had gone on to the Culinary Intstitute before my inauspicious start, so I had no witnesses to my daily humiliation.

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I have to say, it was love at first sight. Where else can you work with a large group of fun (and usually good looking) people, all bent on making money and having a good time doing it? Not only that, they fed us, we could buy beer and the dating game was fast and furious. I never wanted to go home. Problem was, school faded into the background and my life quickly became work-centered. I dropped out after two years as a communications/theatre major. To make matters worse in my parents minds, Don Pardo, the famous announcer, was going to help me find a job at NBC after graduation. Alas… but as the zen master said, “We’ll see…”

More on the next post. JWS