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Corner Kitchen: A Biltmore Village Restaurant Blog

Archive for 2011

Thanksgiving flavors – Cranberry/Apple Chutney and Cranberry Sauce

Wednesday, November 9th, 2011

Thanksgiving at the Scully household of my youth was always a time with so many people running around; so much food cooking and for some reason lots of loud music. My mom was always considered the best cook in her family so her family was usually at our house in force. She made everything from scratch, so I didn’t know any better. I thought everyone made a pan gravy and au gratin onions. I thought it was normal to make a pate from the Turkey liver.

However, I gradually became aware of the way other folks “celebrated” culinary feasts. That was for the most part, very disappointing. When I met the mother of my two kids, I found someone who rivaled my mom. She was interested in doing everything the best she could, including Thanksgiving! So good in fact, that I was compelled to have two versions of many Thanksgiving staples. I am going to print the two Cranberry sauces and let you be the judge(s) of which was best. It wasn’t easy for me to decide…

Cranberry/Apple Chutney

Ingredients:

1.5 cups                                water

1.5 cups                                sugar

3/4 cups                               onion (finely chopped)

1 tbs                                        garlic

2 tsp                                       cinnamon

3/4 tsp                                  ground cloves

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1/2 cup                                 apple cider vinegar

1/4 tsp                                  cayenne pepper

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

1 cup                                     white raisins

1 cup                                     apples (peeled and diced)

1/2 tsp                                  ground ginger

1/2 cup                                 brown sugar

Method: Sauté the onions  in a little oil, add the first nine ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add everything else and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool.

Cranberry Sauce

Ingredients:

1 cups                                   water

1.5 cups                                sugar

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

4 each                                   cinnamon sticks

1 each                                   orange (navel) quartered and sliced thin)

Method: Combine all items and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and cool. Serve.

As you might be able to observe, the two recipes are VERY different. So were the two women, each great in her way as are these distinctive Thanksgiving Sauces.

The truth is out OR Things just don’t taste the same outside the restaurant

Wednesday, September 28th, 2011

I recently received my first piece of “fan mail” for my monthly diatribe in the Fairview Town Crier. I was gratified because I really don’t think of myself as any kind of writer. We have people in our community that are writers and I have neither the education nor the talent to consider myself one of them.  It was, however a stroke to the old ego.

“Dear Chef Joe Scully;

I just have to tell you how much I enjoy your monthly column in the Fairview Town Crier…”

Now here comes the inspiring part of the letter, “But I have a bone to pick with you…”  Oh, God, I thought, what now.  “It is concerning the recipe for Vegetarian Lentil Soup… You list all the ingredients except for the real flavoring (her italics) part of the soup,  you simply say “various herbs”. Come on now, you and I both well know that the differences between your Vegetarian Lentil Soup and mine are just that; which and how much of those “various herbs”.  I’ve eaten at your restaurant often enough to know that to be true. Otherwise, I’d just eat at home…”

So, I stand accused of omitting key ingredients!  It seems that I am afraid to reveal all of what I know in order to keep my place as “Chef”!  Not true, I say, not true. I am totally willing to divulge all of what I know. It is not a secret, but time and print place limitations on what I actually include in whatever I say or write.  There are many factors that go into creating a truly great bit of cooking. Usually is it method, but just as often it is an ingredient. Let me set the record straight, the “various herbs” are what we call the “Herb Mix”.  This is a grouping of chopped herbs that define a lot of our style and taste at the Corner Kitchen.

Lavender Herb Mix

Ingredients:

½ cup               Lavender (picked)

½ cup               Rosemary (picked)

½ cup              Thyme (picked)

½ cup              Oregano (picked)

¼ cup              Sage (if available)

1 cup               Parsley

Method:  Combine and chop all.

For that particular soup, it is just as important to use WAY too much olive oil, and the tomato product, oh yes, and don’t forget the Balsamic Vinegar… There are so many variables. Like this one:  you should caramelize the onions to get extra flavor. Then it is a good practice to make a bouquet of herbs “en branche” like those listed above (tie them with twine and pick them out when the soup is complete).

You get the idea. I love to give my recipes away. Mostly because it is fun to see the surprise on the face of the recipient, but also because I like to give things. I do have to admit though, that in the back of my mind I am secure in the knowledge that most folks won’t be able to make the item taste as good as it tasted in the restaurant. There; more confessions…

Here is one of my favorites:

White Chocolate Mac-nut Blondie

Oven to 325f

Ingredients:

Dry Mix:

5.5 cups                                Pecans, toasted and fine chop

5.5 cups                                AP Flour                                                   Combine

1 tsp                                        Baking Soda

1 tsp.                                       Salt

Wet Mix:

1.5 lbs.                                  Butter (soft)

1lb cups                                Lt. Brown Sugar (packed)                 Cream

1.5  cup                                 Sugar

Then Add:

6 each                                   Eggs

6 each                                   Yolks

1 cup                                     Lt. Corn Syrup

3 Tbsp.                                  Vanilla

Add Dry Mix and then mix in “garnish”:

4 cups                                   White Chocolate Chips

3 cups                                   Crystallized Ginger

and  top with :

1 cup                                      Chopped Mac-nuts

Method:  Bake for 25 minutes on a full greased parchment lined sheet pan cool and cut into squares (5×8)

A day on the river with Kevin and Joe (and Richard Witt)

Monday, May 9th, 2011

Joe and I have been business partners for over seven years.  We have torn out drywall together, installed windows in the restaurant together, done Bele Chere three times, and canoed to the restaurant during the floods of 2004 but have never gone fishing together.  This is probably because neither of us fish a lot or, more likely, that we just didn’t have the time.

A friend of ours, and fellow Biltmore Village businessman, Richard Witt of Curtis Wright Outfitters, has been trying to get us on the river with him for a couple of years.  He is very friendly and not pushy, but insistent in a way that is hard to say “no” to.  In late March of this year, he hit us with the offer at the right time.  Joe and I both said yes and Richard set the trip for early on a Monday morning.  It was cold and rainy.  “Do fish still bite in the rain?” I asked Joe.  I think the answer was “They are already wet, what do you think?” or something like that.  Long story short, the trip was still on.

Richard picked us up in his van, which is outfitted with everything several people could possibly need for fishing, including a goodie box with Clif Bars and other assorted foodstuffs.  Our destination was the Davidson River near Brevard.  We actually parked in the lot near the fish hatchery.  Richard helped us get outfitted in our waders and talked us through what to expect.  The fly rods he gave us were very light and the flys were just a size larger than a large gnat (probably slightly larger than that, but they seemed TINY.)

In the parking lot, Richard actually helped us act out how we would cast, what to do when we caught a fish and how not to make mistakes that would let the fish get off the line.  I commented on the fact that he actually seemed to think that we would really catch something that day and he seemed completely sure of it.  After making sure we had all the equipment and Richard had his camera we walked a couple hundred feet to the river.

Now, most of my fishing experience has been with my grandfather on the French Broad River or with my brother-in-law in Florida.  Both of these required packing up the car, driving to a spot to park, and either walking a half mile or so to the river, or taking the boat a half hour down the Intercoastal Waterway.  What we did with Richard was positively too easy.  Park, get out, walk for a minute and start casting. 

To set the scene, the day was overcast, the water was cold and Joe and I were doing something we had never done before.  To top it off, I had sunglasses but not the right kind.  Richard would look over my shoulder and say “See that big brown trout over there? ” or “There are several good-sized ones under that rhododendron on the far bank.”  I saw water.  So I just cast into the spot he pointed to and after about ten or twelve casts I hooked something.  I pulled back and low like Richard had instructed but either I had no fish or I had pulled the hook.

The next cast, however, I hooked a trout.  Nice!  Richard came over (he stands in the river with you and gives very patient, very calm instruction while you are standing there thinking “Holy Crow- I caught something!  Let me rip this sucker out of the water!”) and talked me through being easy on the fish while keeping it on and steadily reeling it in.

When he eased the net under my first trout, I saw that it was about 8-10 inches long.  Not very big, but it was beautiful to me.  He took the obligatory pictures and then we let the fish relax in the net in the water and released it.  On the Davidson River, apparently it is only legal to catch and release, which made it easier to face my daughter Lauren later in the day.  Soon after this first fish I caught another little guy and then I hooked a nice 15-inch brown trout.  I was having fun now.

Richard had worked his way down the river toward Joe, who had caught a fish as well.  Richard was showing Joe a little overhang on the far bank of the river that had a dark, cave-like entrance beneath it.  Joe kept casting into it with a fly Richard had put on that just floated on the water.  This was fairly tricky work as Joe had to be pretty precise with his casts.  I had already put my fly into the rhodos a couple of times which is not a lot of fun, but Joe avoided this fate.  After a series of casts, a big rainbow hit Joe’s fly.  He set the hook and worked the big guy in.  This was the fish of the day.

We needed to head back to town for the work/family/soccer obligations, so we were off the river by mid-afternoon.  I was a little tired and hungry, so I dove into Richard’s box of goodies and had a snack and a drink.  Richard complimented us on being quick learners and on the fish we had caught.  He may have just being nice, but no one could deny that we had caught some fish.  Having Richard there made it easy & fun. 

We are looking forward to taking our kids back for a day with Richard on the Davidson.  It is a great way to bring your blood pressure down and a beautiful setting to boot.  If you are looking for a great guide and patient teacher, Richard Witt is your man.  He can be reached at curtiswrightoutfitters.com or by phone at 828.274.4371.  Give him a call or visit the shop – you’ll be glad you did.