The Village Voice Blog

Thanksgiving flavors – Cranberry/Apple Chutney and Cranberry Sauce

November 9th, 2011

Thanksgiving at the Scully household of my youth was always a time with so many people running around; so much food cooking and for some reason lots of loud music. My mom was always considered the best cook in her family so her family was usually at our house in force. She made everything from scratch, so I didn’t know any better. I thought everyone made a pan gravy and au gratin onions. I thought it was normal to make a pate from the Turkey liver.

However, I gradually became aware of the way other folks “celebrated” culinary feasts. That was for the most part, very disappointing. When I met the mother of my two kids, I found someone who rivaled my mom. She was interested in doing everything the best she could, including Thanksgiving! So good in fact, that I was compelled to have two versions of many Thanksgiving staples. I am going to print the two Cranberry sauces and let you be the judge(s) of which was best. It wasn’t easy for me to decide…

Cranberry/Apple Chutney

Ingredients:

1.5 cups                                water

1.5 cups                                sugar

3/4 cups                               onion (finely chopped)

1 tbs                                        garlic

2 tsp                                       cinnamon

3/4 tsp                                  ground cloves

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1/2 cup                                 apple cider vinegar

1/4 tsp                                  cayenne pepper

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

1 cup                                     white raisins

1 cup                                     apples (peeled and diced)

1/2 tsp                                  ground ginger

1/2 cup                                 brown sugar

Method: Sauté the onions  in a little oil, add the first nine ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add everything else and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool.

Cranberry Sauce

Ingredients:

1 cups                                   water

1.5 cups                                sugar

1/2 tsp                                  salt

1 ea.                                      12 oz. bag cranberries

4 each                                   cinnamon sticks

1 each                                   orange (navel) quartered and sliced thin)

Method: Combine all items and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and cool. Serve.

As you might be able to observe, the two recipes are VERY different. So were the two women, each great in her way as are these distinctive Thanksgiving Sauces.

The truth is out OR Things just don’t taste the same outside the restaurant

September 28th, 2011

I recently received my first piece of “fan mail” for my monthly diatribe in the Fairview Town Crier. I was gratified because I really don’t think of myself as any kind of writer. We have people in our community that are writers and I have neither the education nor the talent to consider myself one of them.  It was, however a stroke to the old ego.

“Dear Chef Joe Scully;

I just have to tell you how much I enjoy your monthly column in the Fairview Town Crier…”

Now here comes the inspiring part of the letter, “But I have a bone to pick with you…”  Oh, God, I thought, what now.  “It is concerning the recipe for Vegetarian Lentil Soup… You list all the ingredients except for the real flavoring (her italics) part of the soup,  you simply say “various herbs”. Come on now, you and I both well know that the differences between your Vegetarian Lentil Soup and mine are just that; which and how much of those “various herbs”.  I’ve eaten at your restaurant often enough to know that to be true. Otherwise, I’d just eat at home…”

So, I stand accused of omitting key ingredients!  It seems that I am afraid to reveal all of what I know in order to keep my place as “Chef”!  Not true, I say, not true. I am totally willing to divulge all of what I know. It is not a secret, but time and print place limitations on what I actually include in whatever I say or write.  There are many factors that go into creating a truly great bit of cooking. Usually is it method, but just as often it is an ingredient. Let me set the record straight, the “various herbs” are what we call the “Herb Mix”.  This is a grouping of chopped herbs that define a lot of our style and taste at the Corner Kitchen.

Lavender Herb Mix

Ingredients:

½ cup               Lavender (picked)

½ cup               Rosemary (picked)

½ cup              Thyme (picked)

½ cup              Oregano (picked)

¼ cup              Sage (if available)

1 cup               Parsley

Method:  Combine and chop all.

For that particular soup, it is just as important to use WAY too much olive oil, and the tomato product, oh yes, and don’t forget the Balsamic Vinegar… There are so many variables. Like this one:  you should caramelize the onions to get extra flavor. Then it is a good practice to make a bouquet of herbs “en branche” like those listed above (tie them with twine and pick them out when the soup is complete).

You get the idea. I love to give my recipes away. Mostly because it is fun to see the surprise on the face of the recipient, but also because I like to give things. I do have to admit though, that in the back of my mind I am secure in the knowledge that most folks won’t be able to make the item taste as good as it tasted in the restaurant. There; more confessions…

Here is one of my favorites:

White Chocolate Mac-nut Blondie

Oven to 325f

Ingredients:

Dry Mix:

5.5 cups                                Pecans, toasted and fine chop

5.5 cups                                AP Flour                                                   Combine

1 tsp                                        Baking Soda

1 tsp.                                       Salt

Wet Mix:

1.5 lbs.                                  Butter (soft)

1lb cups                                Lt. Brown Sugar (packed)                 Cream

1.5  cup                                 Sugar

Then Add:

6 each                                   Eggs

6 each                                   Yolks

1 cup                                     Lt. Corn Syrup

3 Tbsp.                                  Vanilla

Add Dry Mix and then mix in “garnish”:

4 cups                                   White Chocolate Chips

3 cups                                   Crystallized Ginger

and  top with :

1 cup                                      Chopped Mac-nuts

Method:  Bake for 25 minutes on a full greased parchment lined sheet pan cool and cut into squares (5×8)

A day on the river with Kevin and Joe (and Richard Witt)

May 9th, 2011

Joe and I have been business partners for over seven years.  We have torn out drywall together, installed windows in the restaurant together, done Bele Chere three times, and canoed to the restaurant during the floods of 2004 but have never gone fishing together.  This is probably because neither of us fish a lot or, more likely, that we just didn’t have the time.

A friend of ours, and fellow Biltmore Village businessman, Richard Witt of Curtis Wright Outfitters, has been trying to get us on the river with him for a couple of years.  He is very friendly and not pushy, but insistent in a way that is hard to say “no” to.  In late March of this year, he hit us with the offer at the right time.  Joe and I both said yes and Richard set the trip for early on a Monday morning.  It was cold and rainy.  “Do fish still bite in the rain?” I asked Joe.  I think the answer was “They are already wet, what do you think?” or something like that.  Long story short, the trip was still on.

Richard picked us up in his van, which is outfitted with everything several people could possibly need for fishing, including a goodie box with Clif Bars and other assorted foodstuffs.  Our destination was the Davidson River near Brevard.  We actually parked in the lot near the fish hatchery.  Richard helped us get outfitted in our waders and talked us through what to expect.  The fly rods he gave us were very light and the flys were just a size larger than a large gnat (probably slightly larger than that, but they seemed TINY.)

In the parking lot, Richard actually helped us act out how we would cast, what to do when we caught a fish and how not to make mistakes that would let the fish get off the line.  I commented on the fact that he actually seemed to think that we would really catch something that day and he seemed completely sure of it.  After making sure we had all the equipment and Richard had his camera we walked a couple hundred feet to the river.

Now, most of my fishing experience has been with my grandfather on the French Broad River or with my brother-in-law in Florida.  Both of these required packing up the car, driving to a spot to park, and either walking a half mile or so to the river, or taking the boat a half hour down the Intercoastal Waterway.  What we did with Richard was positively too easy.  Park, get out, walk for a minute and start casting. 

To set the scene, the day was overcast, the water was cold and Joe and I were doing something we had never done before.  To top it off, I had sunglasses but not the right kind.  Richard would look over my shoulder and say “See that big brown trout over there? ” or “There are several good-sized ones under that rhododendron on the far bank.”  I saw water.  So I just cast into the spot he pointed to and after about ten or twelve casts I hooked something.  I pulled back and low like Richard had instructed but either I had no fish or I had pulled the hook.

The next cast, however, I hooked a trout.  Nice!  Richard came over (he stands in the river with you and gives very patient, very calm instruction while you are standing there thinking “Holy Crow- I caught something!  Let me rip this sucker out of the water!”) and talked me through being easy on the fish while keeping it on and steadily reeling it in.

When he eased the net under my first trout, I saw that it was about 8-10 inches long.  Not very big, but it was beautiful to me.  He took the obligatory pictures and then we let the fish relax in the net in the water and released it.  On the Davidson River, apparently it is only legal to catch and release, which made it easier to face my daughter Lauren later in the day.  Soon after this first fish I caught another little guy and then I hooked a nice 15-inch brown trout.  I was having fun now.

Richard had worked his way down the river toward Joe, who had caught a fish as well.  Richard was showing Joe a little overhang on the far bank of the river that had a dark, cave-like entrance beneath it.  Joe kept casting into it with a fly Richard had put on that just floated on the water.  This was fairly tricky work as Joe had to be pretty precise with his casts.  I had already put my fly into the rhodos a couple of times which is not a lot of fun, but Joe avoided this fate.  After a series of casts, a big rainbow hit Joe’s fly.  He set the hook and worked the big guy in.  This was the fish of the day.

We needed to head back to town for the work/family/soccer obligations, so we were off the river by mid-afternoon.  I was a little tired and hungry, so I dove into Richard’s box of goodies and had a snack and a drink.  Richard complimented us on being quick learners and on the fish we had caught.  He may have just being nice, but no one could deny that we had caught some fish.  Having Richard there made it easy & fun. 

We are looking forward to taking our kids back for a day with Richard on the Davidson.  It is a great way to bring your blood pressure down and a beautiful setting to boot.  If you are looking for a great guide and patient teacher, Richard Witt is your man.  He can be reached at curtiswrightoutfitters.com or by phone at 828.274.4371.  Give him a call or visit the shop – you’ll be glad you did.

Cranberry/Apple Chutney

December 2nd, 2010

If you would like to try an unusual approach to cranberry “sauce” give this recipe a whirl.

Cranberry/Apple Chutney

Ingredients:

1.5 cups water

1.5 cups sugar

3/4 cups onion (finely chopped)

1 tbs garlic

2 tsp  cinnamon

3/4 tsp  ground cloves

1/2 tsp   salt

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

1 ea.   12 oz. bag cranberries

1 cup white raisins

1 cup apples (peeled and diced)

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/2 cup brown sugar

Method: Sauté the onions  in a little oil, add the first nine ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add everything else and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool.

The real gifts in our lives …

December 2nd, 2010

The real gifts are the people we learn from…

The Holidays have become a time for reflection for me. I start with Thanksgiving and the contemplation of all the things and people that I am grateful for. Then the Holiday season really kicks in. The restaurant business gets crazy, the family is pulling us in all directions and we are vaguely preparing to be broke in the coldest months of the year.

I think that is why it becomes easy to lose track of the real gifts. The real presents are the folks that we meet in our lives. Oh, sometimes we can start out disliking someone, or they make us nervous or we feel that an individual has nothing to offer. Then, as time passes we grow to realize that each person we come in contact with has their little bag of tricks, good and bad, that we can grow from and be enriched by.  Here are some of the people that have been gifted to me over the years.

Jimmy Knikos: Here is a guy, running an incredibly busy restaurant, waiters and cooks spinning out of control all around him, and he is calm. I mean really calm. Impeccably dressed and never a hair out of place. I was new to cooking on the “line” and almost totally inept. I was scared, unsure and unskilled. The line was set up such that the manager or expediter called all the orders in over a microphone. We cooks were expected to remember it all and coordinate the tables so that all the food came out together.

I was frequently lost, and just as often, Jimmy Knikos would talk me through the process. He would gently and calmly speak to me over the mic, saying things like, “Joe, turn around and open the oven. Now fire two more stuffed shrimp and don’t forget to take the other one out of the oven. No, that’s a wet towel, you’ll burn yourself, yes, the dry one…” Hours of this, without any anger or disdain at my obvious ineptitude. After a month or so, I got quick and could remember what was happening in sequence. I got good, but it was all Jimmy. He gave me the sense to be a fast and capable cook.

Victor Gouras: I did my “externship” at a New York restaurant called Periyali in early 1988.   It was owned by Charlie Palmer; one of the City’s best chefs. I wanted to work with Charlie, so I took the job.   The kitchen was in the basement of an old building in Flatiron/Chelsea.   As a matter of fact, it is still there (35 West 20th St # A, New York, NY 10011-3709, (212) 463-7890).  It remains a very good upscale Greek restaurant.

On my first day, I met Victor Gouras. He and his wife, Irina, were the “consultants” to ensure authenticity in our Greek-ness with regard the food. At the time Victor was around sixty and to describe him as “crusty” would be a gross understatement. He and Irina lived most of the year on the island of Patmos off Greece. They were in New York specifically to open Periyali. Victor had never gone to Culinary school and was openly contemptuous of anyone who did; think me.

He was also the fastest cook I had ever worked with.  He got more going before 8 AM that most cooks could in an entire day.   His motto; “If you put it on the stove, it will get done.”  He was so rough on me that I had to retire to the restroom to cry in peace on several occasions.  Over time I was able to hang with Victor, I got all the soups and the octopus and the lamb shanks going.  I made sure that I was respectful of Victor and his wife, mostly by making the food exactly the way he showed me.  By the time Victor and Irina had to go back to Greece, he was like a father to me. The tears I shed when we said goodbye were tears of love. I will never forget the lessons and the flavors that Victor Gouras gifted me.

Mark Erickson CMC: When I met Mark, I was doing a Fellowship at the Culinary Institute of America and he was the Director of Culinary Education (kind of like being in charge of the Sports department for the Olympics). He was going to take a job in Atlanta at the Cherokee Town and Country Club, and hired me to be a Sous-Chef.

The thing about Mark is his absolute mastery of so much of our craft. The “CMC” after his name means Certified Master Chef. He also has an MBA.  And he is a great mountain biker.  And he is the most humble and gentle chef I have ever worked with.  Most chefs have big, BIG egos, me included, but somehow Mark was able to out-cook and out-think everyone in the kitchen without the big head.  He was and is a great manager, drawing out the best work from his employees without a trace of histrionics. I saw him angry once, but gave him many opportunities to be angry with me.

I take from Mark the gift of quiet confidence, from Victor the ability to be accepting of knowledge no matter the source or style and from Jimmy the sense of order through the chaos that informs the working life of a chef.  I hope I can always be open and receptive to the gift of the people in my life.

Josh and Katie’s Wedding

October 26th, 2010

The problem when both bride and groom are employed at the same restaurant is that, inevitably, some of the staff won’t be able to attend the wedding. I was experimenting with my new camera and decided to share some of my photos for those who want to see a bit of what Josh and Katie’s lovely wedding was like. They were married out at The Farm in Candler, NC, on a perfect golden afternoon on October 16, 2010. Best wishes to the happy couple!                (Note: If you’d like to see a picture more closely, just click on it)

Welcome to The Farm

Kevin signs us in...

Autumn colors prevailed...

The Farm, Candler, NC

Waiting for the wedding to begin

Sweet little girl in front of me, waiting patiently

Her twin sister...

Who let the Cat Burglar in here? (Joe Bly)

Terri Lenhart and Joe Scully

The groom, Josh Weeks

The bride, Katie, with her father.

The Big Moment

Katie and Josh

Cara Frieje, maid of honor

Michalene Talley, the evening's lovely bartender

Waiting for the wedding toasts....

Good beer in an old trough --- classic!

Kevin raises a glass to the golden afternoon

A perfect afternoon for a wedding!

Hand-rolled caramel apples as a thank you - delicious idea!

The gazebo where the ceremony took place

Joe Scully and Kevin Westmoreland, the Corner Kitchen masterminds.

Josh and his mother

"Let's get this party started..."

Rocky observes some of the guests

Michelle and Paulie

Katie and company

I LOVE this picture! This is SO Katie! ha ha

For those who wanted to enjoy the sunset

The dining area opened up to join the sunset

The centerpieces glowed warmly

McRae and Christina helping to make sure the evening went smoothly

The dining area had a wonderful rock fireplace at one end

Looking out at the last of the light

First dance as a married couple

I know it's blurry but I liked the feel of this picture

Katie and her father dance together

little dancers

Amy and Kevin Westmoreland

Time to decorate the car using Hank's artistic talents...

little love goats

Cheers!

Candlelight above the fireplace

The bathroom earned points with me because of the old wooden stirrup as the towel holder!

Best wishes for "Happily Ever After", Josh and Katie!

What’s the difference between soup and chowder? / Corn and Crab Chowder, Tomato Basil Bisque

October 26th, 2010

Have you ever wondered why some soups are classified as “chowders”?

Chowder is a rather loose category, but usually indicates a soup that is rich and creamy with chunks of seafood and vegetables. The most famous, of course, is New England Clam Chowder. The word “chowder” evolved from the French word “chaudiere,” the name of the pot in which French fisherman would boil samples of their catches with potatoes and other vegetables. French settlers in the New England colonies introduced the culinary tradition to America. “Chowder” first appeared in a written recipe in 1751. By the 1800s, American cooks started to use mostly clams instead of fish because of the abundance of shellfish in the northeast.

(Source: http://www.souphoopla.com/chowder-soups.html)

If you feel inspired to connect with our colonial roots, try out our Corn and Crab Chowder recipe. Or, whip up our Tomato Basil Bisque too– just for comparison’s sake.

Corn and Crab Chowder

For the “Base”

Ingredients:

1 each   Red Peppers

1 each   Green Peppers

1 each   Small Jalapeno peppers

1 stalks  Celery, chopped

1 each    Yellow Onion

½  tbsp.  Garlic, minced

¼  lbs.   Butter

½  cups     A.P. Flour

2 lbs.   Frozen Corn

1 qt.     Clam Juice

2 qt.   Water

1 lbs.   Crab Claw meat

Method: Sauté all the vegetables (except corn) in the Butter. Add the Flour and cook for a minute (scrape the bottom of the pot!!!) Add clam juice, Water and Simmer for 20 minutes and remove from heat, Add Corn and Crab, cool and store in a labeled, dated plastic container.

For service

2 qt.   Corn and Crab Chowder base

2 cups   Half and Half

1 cup    Heavy Cream

To taste   Lime Juice

To taste    Salt and Pepper mix

As needed   Cornstarch Slurry

Method: Combine, base, and dairy products. Bring the soup to a simmer, season to taste and thicken if necessary.

Note: This soup should have a “slow burn” and be relatively thick. The Lime juice is used to keep it from being too flat and/or heavy

Tomato Basil Bisque

Yield: 10 portions

Ingredients:

2 quarts     Diced Tomatoes in Juice

1 each         Yellow Onion, small, chopped

½   tbsp.    Garlic, minced

1 Tbsp.      Fresh basil, chopped

¼  cup     Extra Virgin Olive Oil

½  each   6 ounce can Tomato paste

1 each    Bay Leaves

1 qt    Heavy Cream and Half & Half

to taste     Salt & Pepper

Method: Sauté onions in olive oil, add garlic, tomato paste. Add Diced tomatoes, bay and basil, Simmer for fifteen minutes. Puree, add cream and season to taste.

Chocolate and Almond Biscotti

October 26th, 2010

As the air gets cooler in the mountains, consider using this recipe to make your own biscotti to dip in your hot coffee or tea.

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 cups blanched whole almonds
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 7/8 cup white sugar
  • 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons whiskey

Method:

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Toast the almonds in a shallow pan for 12 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan a few times, until almonds are lightly colored. Set aside to cool.
  2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Line 2 or 3 cookie sheets with aluminum foil, shiny side up.
  3. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt and sugar. Place 1/2 cup of these dry ingredients into the bowl of a food processor. Add about a half cup of the toasted almonds and process for about 30 seconds.
  4. Return the mixture to the bowl of dry ingredients and stir in the remaining almonds and chocolate chips. In a large measuring cup, beat the eggs, vanilla and whiskey with a fork to blend. Stir into the dry ingredients until moistened. Wet your hands and divide the dough into four portions. Keeping hands wet, form each quarter into strips about 9 inches long, 2 inches wide and 1/2 inch high. Round the ends. Place two strips crosswise on each of the cookie sheets.
  5. Bake for 25 minutes in the preheated oven. If baking more that one sheet at a time, reverse the sheets top to bottom halfway through cooking time.
  6. Using a metal spatula remove the slabs from cookie sheets and let cool for 20 minutes on cutting board. Reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees F.
  7. With a serrated knife, carefully cut at an angle into slices about 1/2 inch wide. Place the slices, cut side down, onto cookie sheets.
  8. Bake 25 to 30 minutes in the preheated oven, until the biscotti is crispy and lightly toasted.
  9. Turn oven off and open the oven door, allowing the biscotti to cool in the oven. When cool, store in an airtight container.

Asian Vinaigrette Dressing

October 26th, 2010

Ingredients:

½ Cup    Sweet Thai Chili sauce

1 Cup      Rice vinegar

1 Cup       Sugar

½  Cup    Soy Sauce

2 Tbsp.   Chopped Cilantro

2 tsp.    Sesame Oil

¼  cup   Lime Juice

¾ Quart  Vegetable Oil

Method: Combine all.

This is a very easy to love salad dressing to be used in any number of dishes.

Ginger Sweet Potato Soup

October 26th, 2010

Ingredients:

2 #      Sweet Potatoes, peeled and diced

1 each    Yellow Onion, chopped

1/4 cup    Ginger, peeled and chopped

2 ounce     Olive Oil

1/2 Gallon     Water

1 each     Bay Leaf

1 qt.     Half & Half

1 qt.     Heavy Cream

1 tsp.    Tabasco.

to taste    Salt & Pepper

Method: Sauté onions and ginger in olive oil, get them transparent but not very much color. Add Potatoes , water, and bay. Simmer until potatoes are fully cooked. Pull bay leaves, puree, and season to taste.

Note: A savory topping enhances this soup. Our favorite is to whip 1 cup of cream with the addition of a good sprinkle of cinnamon. Before it is too stiff add salt and white pepper to taste. Dollop this into the soup

 

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